Hola,
I hope this email finds you well and gearing up for spring. This past week was Carnaval here in Spain and let me begin by saying it ultimately shames our Halloween. Image a weeklong celebration for people of every age and people of every age dressing up in elaborate costumes. Thursday night we kicked off our carnival celebration with a group meeting at Cicero bar where we talked about our hiking trip in the mountains, then we hit up the bar street and enjoyed the wonderful lights and carnival decorations. Friday was the same with more costumes bar hopping and dancing.
Saturday began the true Carnaval festivities with our attendance at the Aviles Carnaval. Aviles is a City located about thirty minutes away and it is known for having one of the best carnavals in Spain! We arrived around three with our costumes stored in the train station lockers and we were dressed in ratty clothes prepared for the foam party at six. We really didn’t know what to expect at this foam party I assumed there would be about an inch of shaving cream in the streets. We sat in a park and basked for a few hours watching kids in adorable costumes and families dressed up in intense matching costumes. We began to notice people were wearing full on rain gear and boats, mind you it is a sunny day. We headed into a grocery store a little before six and I suggested we buy some trash bags to cover ourselves just in case, best decision ever made. We headed into the streets where there were huge orange barriers dividing the rain coat people in the middle from the older well costumed adults on the outside. There were big blue cannons positioned all around the streets and people were beginning to gather under them in anticipation. We pushed our way to the middle of a group and admired the incredible decorations and costumes. This parade/foam party takes place around apartment building so it is tradition for people to stand on their balconies and throw eggs and water on the people below.
Finally it was time to start this foam party and they fired up the cannons. Foam sprayed out all over us and we screamed and jumped and everyone squished together under the falling foam. We were all so squished together that the foam began to build up on our shoulders until I noticed I could no longer see the sky. Everyone had the same panic attack that we were going to suffocate in foam at the same time and fought to break out from the pack. You’d think I would learn my lesson after such a near death experience, but I couldn’t resist the draw of the puffy white foam!
The street also served as a parade route and these huge, incredible floats, unlike anything I have ever seen before would come barreling down the streets as the police pushed people out of the way just in the nick of time, mind you every float was full of people drinking and smoking. People were drinking and smoking pushing the floats! I think my favorite aspect though was the toboggan. They took toboggans and attached wheels then they would ride the streets and scoop children out of the way with long kayak paddles, all while holding glasses of alcohol. We played in the foam party, getting completely soaked from head to toe; our hair looked like we had lathered with soap in the shower, until we were too cold to function. Then we went back to the train station to change and return for the concert and after party. I went shopping at the chinos stores the week before and found a legit Chinese shirt and rice field hat so I obviously went as mulan, my friend Carrie went as my panda bear. We also had with us a police officer, 50’s guy, pajama party girls, cowboy, and several pirates. We stopped for dinner at a donar kebap restaurant, a Turkish food and my new obsession before heading back into the party. The streets were so full of people it was amazing and when they dress up they do it big.
Finally it was time to brave the foam again and make it back into the center of the city. The foam had depressed to about ankle deep but it was still a pain in the butt to walk through. We found two stages, basically facing each other, one was an older band playing classic American hits and the other was a DJ skankily dressed women singing modern dance moves. We switched stages about ever forty five minutes when the other would take a break. We had so much fun dancing and singing and admiring the many, many costumes. Because Aviles is such a crazy important carnaval the buses run all night, we finally got on ours at 4 a.m. The next day, Sunday, I slept in till ten then went to church with my friend Megan. After mass since it was such a glorious day we decided to sit for awhile in the sunny park and bask on the benches with the other old people. We happened upon several groups dressed up in traditional costumes playing the bagpipes and performing traditional dances. We thought we had struck the customs mother load with our find, but apparently they do that every Sunday. That night we headed back out to our favorite bar Cicero’s for more fiestas and carnaval activities.
Monday morning we woke up around ten, mind you we have been going to bed around four or five every night since Thursday, and Hanna, Megan and I set off for a hiking adventure in the mountains. We had heard of a trail and hopped on a bus, after stopping in a grocery store for cheese, ham, bread, and snacks. I know I mentioned before that nothing gets refrigerated here, but let me remind you that it is ok to carry around cheese and ham in your back on a hot sunny day for multiple hours before finally consuming it. The trail was absolutely gorgeous and followed a gorge along the trails. The drop was really steep and luckily the trail was pretty empty being a Monday. We hiked for about an hour and a half before stopping for lunch on the side of a mountain.
We made it back really fast and had about an hour to kill before our bus would be back so we did some wonderful basking right on the edge of the gorge. If you can’t tell yet the theme of basking is very popular here, we treat it like a sport. So we lay in the sun listening to the million cow bells clamoring around us and the wind in the trees until time forced us back to the bus stop. That night was the carnaval celebration in Gijon, another nearby town town so we all got ready and headed out around nine o’clock. Gijon was a lot of fun but not as exciting as Aviles. We arrived just as the parade was ending then spent a lot of time getting lost and trying to locate the rest of the group. That night we hung out with a lot of people from our program not from Iowa, like people from Ohio and California. They can’t party with us Iowans though, they claim it’s because we have nothing better to do in our state.
After dancing at another big stage, this time with strictly Spanish music, we wandered into the bar district and joined other thousands of people. Hanna and I went to the bus station around 3 am hoping there all night buses as was the case in Aviles but we had no such luck. The first bus out was not until 6:30 a.m. There was a serious sea breeze that night and I could not warm up. Hanna and I headed into a Donar Kebap restaurant to join Corinne and Carrie for some wraps and it was decided we would splurge for a taxi home, the total cost was forty euro and we decided we would pay ten euros each to get home at a decent time and be warm. The taxi ride was extremely foggy and the driver could not understand our instructions about where to be dropped off so we ended up about an hour’s walk away from our houses. At this point none of us were happy and I was more than excited to crash in my bed around five am.
Tuesday was relaxing and spent hanging out with friends then that night continuing the carnaval festivities at Bar Campa where we met some people from Africa and shared our life stories. Wednesday we went back to school, lame, but still went back out to Bar Campa that night for more activities. Thursday night was our night out as a group again and we went to Cicero’s and pestered our favorite bar tender and played card games.
Friday night kicked off the carnaval celebrations in Oviedo and the entire city was decorated with lights and costumes, the main event was Saturday night, with a concert and parade but we would be hiking in the mountains as a group. That night we went out to our favorite park to play games and hang out before heading to bed decently early, one a.m., in preparation for our hiking the following day. Saturday morning we met up at ten a.m. and headed off into the mountains. We all stayed in a huge hostel with two giant rooms filled with bunk beds and we left our stuff there before hitting the trails. The trail we took was a new one for our coordinators, Luna and Paula; they are geologist and avid hikers. We walked up a huge hill then somehow ended up in the thick of the forest on the side of a mountain. We kept weed wacking, bush wacking, our way through trying to find a trail. I was wearing Capri’s and my ankles were seriously scratched up from all the thorns. Finally we found the trail again and our hike could continue. We have people in our group from all walks of life and the girly girls were not having it. Paula and Luna kept reassuring us that we were through the worse, or so they thought.
We stopped about two hours in for lunch, they commented on how slow we were walking, I don’t think they factored in the fact that we all left our machetes at home. But they told us we had to pick up the pace or we wouldn’t make it for hours. Challenge accepted. Little did we know we were heading into a mud zone and our shoes would never be the same. We waded through so much mud, and people were losing their shoes left and right. But it was worth it to see some of the incredible views. Along the way we picked up two dogs, and by picked up I mean they literally followed us on the trail for miles ending with us at the hostel. I don’t think the hostel owners were very happy when they had to drive them home the next day.
So after five hours of hiking we were bloody and muddy and exhausted. We spent a few hours just hanging out in the backyard/field of the hostel playing soccer, rugby, exploring, and telling stories. The whole trip felt like a trip back in time where people still use crazy clog shoes to wear outside, and till their fields with old tools. We took a quick nap before dinner, only in Spain do they make you walk all day then refuse to feed you till nine p.m. Finally it was time for dinner and we had the most delicious chicken, bread, and soup I have ever tasted. Our coordinators brought some of their Spanish friends to go hiking with us and I sat next to their friend Miguel. Miguel didn’t speak any English so my friends and I decided we would tell him crazy stories about everyone at the table and see if he would believe us. We had a lot of fun and I still don’t think he actually knows that we were kidding. After we ate it was time to dance.
The hostel bar was suppose to stay open for us all night and we turned it into our own special dance floor. We played different dancing games and card games. We taught the Spaniards the cha cha slide and the cupid shuffle in exchange for some shakira dancing moves. We also interlude with all the Spaniards and taught them all the moves, we have it filmed on facebook. The party lasted till about three a.m. when the bartender was too tired to keep watching us.
The next morning we woke up around ten a.m. for a breakfast of bread, hot chocolate, and cookies, then we returned to bed and lounged around giggling till our bus came at one p.m. that afternoon I spent time watching tv with my madre and going to church at the Cathedral at 6:30 p.m. That night was recovery time and I was in bed real early. All in all it was probably the craziest week of my life and I loved every moment. Spain does costumes and party right!!
Here are some more useful tips/observations:
1. Costumes are meant to be inventive and expensive not slutty.
2. Spanish movie titles do not translate correctly in English, like at all!
3. Cows still wear the traditional cow bell, and when they are all walking in the pasture it sounds like a banjo playing.
4. Picnicking is not common place.
5. Sheep dogs are huge and aggressive.
6. Spain will literally make your liver ache.
7. Safety is not the number one priority; it actually probably doesn’t make the top ten.
8. Children were out till four a.m. with their parents on carnaval.
9. Meat without fat is rare.
10. Eating a half loaf of bread with every meal is normal.
I love you I miss you, I have pictures at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=341827&id=563560128&l=64eedda559
Kisses – ELIZABETH